The clink of a glass, discrete laughter for an up stairs room, the
smoky think air of the lounge If the walls could talk, there would be a
thousand stories associated with this fine kit from Micro-Structures.
The Gilmor Hotel, kit #101, offers these imaginary scenes with a sense
of reality. Standing three stories tall, the tall arched windows of
upper floors beckon a bygone area. Of the kits from Micro-Structures I
have built so far, the Gilmor was the most challenging and the most
rewarding. As with other kits from Micro-Structures, a lot of tools
are not necessary. Needle nose pliers, an X-axto knife, set of files,
and tweezers were the only tools used. Cyanoacrylic glue, 10-15 second
(super glue) is the only adhesive needed.
Start the kit by carefully reviewing the instructions. As with these kits, the instructions are very clear. Both a verbal as well as illustrated diagrams are included. A list of Floquil brand paints is also included. I did notice one error with the paints. Mud is listed to use with the window frames. This is not the correct color if you are looking to achieve the same look as that on the packaging. Use Weyerhauser Green instead.
Paint the entire structure first while it is still attached to the brass sheet. It is much easier then painting after the structure is complete. An air brush is recommended, but I elected to brush paint the structure, and I dare to say you can not tell the difference! If using a brush, the secret is to apply very thin layers. Let the paint dry between coats. I found two coats sufficed with a bit of touch up needed at the end. Paint the window details and trim at this time also. Paint masks are included to help with this process. I used a very small round brush, and a lot of patience! A primer coat is not needed.
Once the the painting is done to your satisfaction, it is now time to add mortar to the brick. I used white artist acrylic paint (comes in tubes), and mixed with denatured alcohol. Mix until you have a thin mixture and apply to the bricks with a flat brush. Work in with a little heavier amount of white in places. Use a clean brush with only denatured alcohol to pick up heavy spots, even the coat out, and to work in the color. This can be done even after the first white coats have dried!
Now that you are satisfied with your painting, I elected at this stage to add the optional fire escape. Kit #F-202 is a double window fire escape for a three story building. A drill template is included to place the holes for the fire escape. Place the template on the wall. I used a pin to push through the holes and mark the holes for drilling. A .013 to .017 drill size is recommended. Of course I took another route to achieve the same result! I simply used my x-acto knife to drill the holes. I simply rolled the knife back in forth in the divot created by the pin, As soon as I broke through to the other side, I flipped the brass, and worked from the other side. The is method worked great for me, the holes were perfect size! Plus I had the option to enlarge them if need be. It will be important to have a couple of extra blades on hand. I did of through three drilling the holes.
I painted the entire fire escape sheet with Testors #1249 spray enamel flat black. I then used my well worked x-acto to trim out the pieces. Cut out the two platforms first. I left the posts which are inserted into the wall very long at first. You will need this length later. Carefully fold the platforms to shape. Note, you have two options as to placement of the opening. I elected to place both of mine on the left side. If you would like them on the right, simply fold the sides the opposite way.
Now that the platforms are folded, test fit them with the holes you drilled. Insert the long tabs into the holes. Enlarge the holes if need be at this stage. Once everything fits, paint the holes with appropriate color paint. After the paint dries, push through your fire escape platforms. Fold the long tabs over in the back to tightly secure the platform. Place a drop of glue on each hole, let dry. After the glue has dried and the fire escape is tight and secure, file off the long tabs flush with the surface. Do not place the ladders on until after the kit is built.
Trim out the wall sections of the kit as well as the window sections. Attache the windows to the walls. Do not add the window glazing yet. Fold the walls per the instructions. Be very careful around the large windows and doors at the base of the kit. The brass here is very thin and delicate and warpage can occur. Support this area with you needle nose pliers when you begin bending the kit. I also experienced a slight bowing around the main door, so take your time in this area as well. Run a bead of CA glue down the flap and attached the wall to the flap. Use your self closing tweezers to clamp the wall onto the flap for a secure fit.
Trim out your roof and bend per the instructions. Place the roof in place and glue. I painted the cornices concrete and the roof and skylight detail grimy black. Fill any gaps you may have around the cornice with putty, sand, and paint. I used a thin wash of diluted black acrylic paint and denatured alcohol to bring out the cornice details.
Once you are satisfied with the painting, it is time to add the ladders to the fire escape. I began with the two ladders that lead down from the platforms. A couple different options for ladder placement is offered, I decided to place mine as they appear on the photo of the structure. I trimmed the first ladder to length (roughly 1) with my trusty x-acto. Place a little CA glue on the ends of the ladder and attached to the platforms.
Trim out the second ladder. I attached this once again to the platform, extending the ladder to the top of the railing on the side of the platform. After the glue had dried, I carefully bent the ladder upwards to bring it out of the way of the door and give it the raised look of many fire escapes. The final ladder was the trickiest one to install. This is the ladder extending from the top platform to the roof. Extra ladder length is included in the kit. I trimmed my ladder long enough so I could bow the rails over the cornice and attached to the inside of the cornice. I then used the rounded handle of my files to bow the rails of the ladder. This was perfect for the bow needed. The ladder has rails that extend out to attached to the building.Use only the top rails and trimmed off the rest. Place glue of the rails that attached to the cornice and at the base of the ladder attaching to the platform. Adjust to fit, and hold until the glue is secure. This took some time to get right as the ladder had a tendency to move out of place. Touch up any spots with grimy black.
Weathering time! I used various pastels to weather this building. Charcoal was applied at the base of the kit as well as on the roof and chimney. Greys and browns were used on the roof. A rust brown was used on the fire escape and on the cornice where it attaches. I also chose a copper patina green on the very fine skylight to give it that weathered copper look. Seal with a spray of Testors dull coat. After the weathering is done, it is now time to add your window glazing. Per the instructions, I painted the back of the lithographic films (sign material) with yellow, cyan, red and white acrylics to bring out the sign detail. I painted window shades with a mix of white and burnt umber acrylic paints. Then carefully glue the glazing in place.
Your done! And what a beautiful, highly detailed kit you have created. Though this article may be lengthy, the actual time involved various. The most time I spent was on the fire escape, but the result was more than worth the time involved. Needless to say, this kit will made a fine addition to your Z scale community and offer logging for your out of town guests. -RJK